27 and 28 June 2008
Courtauld Institute of Art, University of London

CALL FOR PAPERS

From feathers to leathers, bones to stones, jewels and furs and hair, this conference will explore the convergence of dress and the natural world.  From the ermine-lined robes of medieval monarchs to today’s catwalk-strutting feather-clad models, people have long adorned their bodies with such materials, or their facsimiles. Clothing made from animal parts or representing other elements of nature has provided some of the most striking dress through time and across cultures such as the splendour of a 19th century Siberian salmon skin coat or the aspirational luxury represented by the1950s fur-clad movie star.

Papers are solicited that draw on a wide variety of symbolic, cultural and technical aspects of flora and fauna in dress, from a diversity of approaches and a spread of historical periods and geographical areas.  Topics may include fur, feathers, skins and other creature components in dress across cultures; fashion’s florals; the use of hair, straw, insects in dress and accessories; sumptuary laws and their aim of regulating the use of fur and other animal elements; imitation fur, ivory, jewels, tortoiseshell and other; precious jewels; moments of significant rebellion against using animals and their parts in dress; conserving clothing that uses fugitive materials from the natural world; the renewed enthusiasm of the early 21st century for furs and skins and the ecological movement and its impact on fashion.
 
CHODA hopes that this conference will explore many of these symbolic, cultural, social and technical aspects of the convergence of dress and the natural world.  This conference welcomes contributions from dress, textile and art historians, conservators, ethnographers, anthropologists, fashion theorists and social historians. Preference will be given to papers that include images.


CHODA regrets that it is unable to pay for any expenses involved in the preparation and presentation of a paper, or for travel to the conference. Please send a one-page abstract and brief CV by Friday 14 December to:

Sonnet Stanfill
Furniture, Textiles and Fashion Department
V & A
South Kensington
London SW7 2RL

Email s.stanfill@vam.ac.uk